DEC  2/1921 


U.S.  NAVY 
VOmS  of  tho  WORLD 


CALLAO-LIMA 


DITTY   BOX   GUIDE    BOOK    SERIES 


BUREAU    OF    N/MGATION 
.     NAVY    DEPARTMENT 


THE  LIMA  CATHEDRAL 


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^IFT 


INDL 


WWfW" 


CALLAO  HARBOR 


.lilHi" 


Ih. 


U.-,i 


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DETACHMENT  OF  THE  PERUVIAN  ARMY 


Contents 

Page 

Introduction        ___-----____--     15 
Fall  of  the  Incas        --_--_______         19 

The  Ancient  Curse  -------------20 

A  Jaunt  to  Callao       ------------        21 

San  Felipe  Castle     -------------24 

City  of  the  Kings        -____--.----        27 

The  Heart  of  Lima  -------------29 

Hotels  and  Theaters        -_._-------        31 

Moors  and  Indians    -------------32 

The  Desert  Coast         ------------        36 

Tales  of  Old  Peru  -------------38 


Eleven 


Foreword 


INCE  warships  flying  the  American  flag  have  made  the  world  of 

S  waters  their  cruising  grounds  and  since  they  carry  with  them 

scores  of  thousands  of  seagoing  Americans,  the  interest  of  the 
Nation  in  ports,  far  and  near,  has  necessarily  increased  in  recent 
years. 

In  order  to  furnish  valuable  information  to  officers  and 
enlisted  men  of  the  Navy,  who  visit  these  countries — as  well  as 
to  other  travelers  on  official  business — the  Bureau  of  Naviga- 
tion is  preparing  individual  guidebooks  on  the  principal  ports  in  oil  quarters 
of  the  globe. 

Although  every  efl'ort  has  been  made  to  include  accurate  information  on 
the  most  important  subjects  connected  with  this  port,  it  is  realized  that  some 
important  facts  may  have  been  omitted  and  that  certain  details  may  be  in- 
accurate. Any  information  concerning  omissions  or  inaccuracies,  addressed 
to  Guidebook  Editor,  Bureau  of  Navigation,  will  be  appreciated.  The  infor- 
mation will  be  incorporated  in  revised  editions. 

Grateful  acknowledgment  is  made  to  the  National  Geographic  Society 
for  its  suggestions,  both  as  to  editorial  policy  and  the  interesting  details 
concerning  Callao  and  Lima  and  environs. 

Acknowledgment  is  also  made  to  Publishers'  Photo  Service  for  the 
following  photographs,  which  are  copyrighted. 


Thirteen 


Introduction 


ERUVIAN  GOLD — Incas'  idols— Pizarro  the  conqueror — Indian 
slaves — forgotten  cities — Spanish  galleons — bronzed  bucca- 
neers— tlie  warm  breath  of  romance !  Of  all  the  South  Amer- 
ican countri(^s  Peru  is  probably  the  most  fascinating  from  the 
standpoint  of  history,  and  one  of  the  most  unique,  even  in  the 
prosaic  age  of  the  present.  Peru  has  lost  much  of  her  ancient 
splendor.  Very  nearly  the  last  vestige  of  her  olden  civili- 
zation has  disappeared  before  the  onset  of  a  new  one ;  but  even 
now,  with  its  unusual  industries,  its  oriental  tinge,  its  desert  coast,  traditions, 
and  picturesque  characters,  Peru  is  fascinating  to  the  wandering  stranger. 

The  traveler  knows  that  Peru  is  part  of  South  America;  yet  he  finds  that 
it  is  not  wholly  of  South  America.  An  explanation  can  not  be  given  here, 
for  no  one  knows  the  rcuison.  Tlie  wrinkletl  hags  of  the  uplands  will  tell  the 
stranger  that  tlie  Indians  who  crept  and  moaned  and  died  under  the  Spanish 
yoke  have  come  back  to  haunt  the  land;  others  will  say  tliat  the  Incas'  ghosts 
have  returned  to  guard  their  stores  of  hidden  gold;  that  their  presence  is 
responsible  for  the  feeling  of  oppression  experienced  at  times  by  the  traveler 
during  his  sojourn  in  Peru.  But  such  superstitious  nmmblings,  such  old 
wives'  tales,  can  be  laughed  away  as  pure  inventions,  as  products  of  distorted 
imaginations;  but,  nevertheli'ss,  there  is  mystery  and  a  ''feeling  in  the  air" 
along  the  Peruvian  coast  and  in  the  mountain  lands. 


Fi/teer. 


Perhaps  the  suggestion  of  the  unreal,  of  the  fantastic,  which  grips  the 
foreigner  in  Peru,  is  due  to  the  oriental  dress  of  some  of  its  people,  its  out-of- 
place  Arahian  horses  of  pure  strain.  Perhaps  it  is  the  white  gleam  of  the  Andes 
against  the  purple  and  red  horizon  toward  the  east;  possibly  it  is  only  the 
uncanny  silence  which  surrounds  the  mountains,  and  is  broken  on  the  sea- 
shore only  by  the  sw-i-i-s-h  of  the  waves  against  the  coast  and  the  shrill 
whistling  of  white-breasted  cormorants  and  Peruvian  gannets  on  the  cliffs. 
It  is  possible,  too,  that  the  feeling  is  brought  on  by  the  weird  and  almost 
unbelievable  tales  one  hears  of  the  ancient  sorrow  of  Peru.  At  any  rate  the 
feeling  is  there,  no  matter  how  or  whence  it  came.  Superstitious  travelers 
have  been  known  to  place  credence  in  the  old  hags'  tales  of  the  ghosts  of  the 
Incas  and  the  wraiths  of  Indian  slaves  bent  double  under  the  yoke;  but  the 
writer  takes  it  for  granted  that  the  reader  is  not  superstitious,  and  so  laughs 
with  him  at  the  foolish  tales  of  flesliless  men  come  back  to  guard  their  hidden 
gold.  Surely  the  gold  can  do  them  no  good  at  this  late  age,  and  the  only 
result  would  be  to  plague  innocent  natives  and  cause  their  hair  to  rise  on 
their  heads  and  the  skin  to  creep  on  then'  shivering  backs. 

Peru  is  a  land  of  contrasts,  the  most  noticeable  of  which  is  the  coldness 
of  the  ocean  waves  that  dash  against  tropical  shores.  Other  contrasts  are 
the  watering  of  tropical  plants  by  melted  snows,  deserts  and  fertile  Valleys, 
and  the  snow-clad  Andes  towering  over  tropical  forests.  Another  contrast 
along  the  coast  is  the  lack  of  moisture,  which  might  render  Peru  unfit  for 
human  habitation  were  it  not  for  rainfall  in  the  interior.  This  contrast  of 
cold  water  and  warm  shores  is  caused  by  a  current  of  cold  water — the  Hum- 


Svrteen 


boldt  current,  which  flows  along  the  coast  of  South  America  from  regions 
near  the  Antarctic  to  the  Equator.  The  absence  of  moisture  on  the  coast  is 
caused  by  the  expansion  of  the  atmosphere,  which  makes  for  dryness.  We 
know  that  before  it  can  rain  a  moisture-tilled  atmosphere  must  contract — 
the  "sponge"  must  be  squeezed.  The  atmosphere  along  the  Peruvian  coast 
expands  rather  than  contracts,  under  the  influence  of  the  cold  winds  from  the 
Humboldt  current  blowing  on  shores  warmed  by  the  hot  sun.  And,  result- 
antly,  it  does  not  rain  on  the  coast  lands  of  Peru. 

Perhaps  these  contrasts,  all  of  them  seemingly  unnatural  to  the  casual 
observer,  have  something  to  do  with  the  strangeness,  to  him,  of  the  Republic 
of  Peru.  They  heighten  the  effect  of  the  unusual  and  mysterious,  and  are 
dispelled  only  when  he  sits  dowTi  to  consider  causes  and  effects.  But  despite 
his  reasoning  the  traveler  finds  that  something  of  his  first  impressions  still 
cling  to  him.  He  still  has  visions  of  the  grotesque,  the  fantastic,  the  unnatural, 
when  he  travels  through  Peru. 

Callao  is  the  chief  seaport  in  the  1,200  miles  of  Peruvian  coast,  extending 
from  Chile  on  the  south  to  Ecuador  on  the  north.  Seven  miles  inland  from 
Callao  is  Lima,  capital  and  principal  city  of  the  Republic.  The  following 
chapters  will  deal  with  both  the  seaport  and  the  capital,  and  give  something 
of  the  very  interesting  history  of  Peru  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
"Land  of  the  Llamas." 


Seventeen 


CALLAO-LIMA 


FALL  OF  THE  INCAS 

ALF  a  thousand  years  ago, 
when  the  white  man  in 
Europe  was  so  occupied 
with  the  Mohammedan 
problem  and  other  affairs 
that  he  had  little  time  to 
look  toward  the  unex- 
plored regions  beyond  the 
Atlantic,  Peru  was  ruled  by  the  Incas,  a 
tribe  of  warriors,  who  kept  the  weaker 
peoples  of  the  country  in  subjection. 
Peru  prospered  under  the  Incas.  The 
land  was  tilled,  the  llama  domesticated, 
and  the  arts  and  professions  were  en- 
couraged. Gold  and  silver  mines  were 
worked  for  their  precious  contents. 
Treasure  was  placed  in  the  graves  of  the 
Incas,  in  their  temples,  palaces,  and  pub- 
lic buildings.  It  was  gold  that  brought 
about  the  fall  of  the  Incas. 

Pizarro,  the  Spaniard,  at  the  head  of  a 
small  band  of  his  countrymen,  invaded 
Peru  in  1531.  He  found  the  country  in 
arms,  not  to  repel  the  invasion,  but  to 
settle  a  quarrel  between  the  sons  of 
Huayna  Capac,  greatest  of  the  Incas.     In 


Lima  Street,  Callao 

an  effort  to  divide  the  empire  inherited 
from  their  father,  the  two  sons,  Huascar 
and  Atahualpa,  came  to  blows.  Huascar 
had  just  been  captured  by  his  brother, 
when  Pizarro,  with  his  eight  score  and 
four  men  and  two  falconets  (or  cannon), 
marched  into  the  country.  Followed 
months  of  war,  in  which  the  Incas  were 
^.k,    defeated  and  the  country  conquered  by 

Nineteen 


CALLAO-LIMA 


the  ffold-thirsty  followers  of  Pizarro. 
Searching  for  gold  in  Peru  as  they  had 
searched  for  gold  in  Panama,  the 
foreigners  slauglitered  natives,  pillaged 
cities,  and  laid  waste  the  fertile  country- 
side. The  invaders  were  not  content 
\vith  the  gold  and  silver  they  found  in 
temples  and  cemeteries;  they  enslaved  the 
Indians  and  sent  them  into  the  mines, 
where  they  exchanged  their  lives  for  gold 
with  which   to   load   the   treasure  ships. 

THE  ANCIENT  CURSE 

IZARRO  was  assassinated 
by  his  enemies.  A  new 
rule  was  inaugurated  by 
the  conquerors.  They  be- 
came more  merciful  in 
their  treatment  of  the 
natives,  who,  for  a  time, 
were  in  danger  of  exter- 
mination. Later  a  law  was  passed  at  the 
request  of  Spanish  churclmien,  w^hich,  by 
releasing  the  Indians  from  slavery,  re- 
flected credit  on  the  Spanish  Government. 
But  the  brief  years  in  which  the  Indians 
of  Peru  had  been  held  in  slavery  were  so: 
Twenty 


filled  with  cruelt}^,  torture,  and  pain  for 
the  poor  victims  that  even  now,  four 
hundred  years  later,  their  descendants 
stand  in  awe  of  the  white  man.  The 
terror  in  which  the  Indians  held  the 
conquerors  must  have  been  abject,  to 
stamp  its  mark  on  their  children  for  so 
many  generations.  On  the  road  the 
Indian  will  salute  the  white  man  with 
respect;  his  children  wiU  look  on  the  white 
man  with  awe;  the  Indian  who  is  hired  to 
run  an  errand  will  accept  as  a  rule  what- 
ever is  given  him.  If  ne  objects  to  the 
smallness  of  the  fee,  the  white  man  has 
only  to  shout  "Begone!"  and  the  poor 
Indian,  with  his  terror  of  the  white  man, 
will  slink  away.  His  very  humility  makes 
him  an  object  of  pity  and  should  single 
him  out  for  a  certain  amount  of  considera- 
tion. Of  course  this  is  not  true  of  some 
Indians,  especially  those  with  a  spoonful 
of  white  blood  in  their  veins.  But  it  is 
true  of  a  great  many  of  them.  The 
ragged  fellow  who  touches  his  hat  and 
lowers  his  eyes  when  a  white  man  passes 
by  was  robbed  of  his  courage,  even  before 
he  was  born.  He  is  burdened  and  dragged 
do^vn  by  a  hereditary  fear.    And  this  fear 


CALLAO-LIMA 


may  have  sometliing  to  do  with  the  Peru- 
vian tales  of  the  ghosts  of  Indian  shxvos, 
who  are  said  to  liaiint  the  graves  of  the 
foreigners  whom  tliey  carried,  as  they 
died,  in  the  bhick  tunnels  of  the  gold  and 
silver  mines  of  Peru. 

There  were  uprisings  among  the  colo- 
nies in  South  America  during  the  hitter 
part  of  the  eighteenth  century  and  the 
early  years  of  the  nineteenth  century; 
but  Peru  took  no  part  in  these  earlier 
struggles.  It  was  the  hist  of  the  colonies 
to  declare  its  independence,  which  was 
achieved  with  the  help  of  Bolivar,  Gen- 
eral San  Martin,  and  a  number  of  English 
volunteers.  The  war  of  independence 
ended  in  1826,  when  the  Spaniards  aban- 
doned Callao. 

In  1880,  during  a  war  in  which  Peru, 
Chile,  Bolivia,  and  Ecuador  banded  to- 
gether against  their  former  rulers,  Callao 
was  bombarded  by  a  Spanish  fleet.  The 
war  was  ended  successfully  for  the  allies; 
but  in  the  resulting  negotiations  Peru  and 
Bolivia  became  allied  in  a  war  against 
Chile.  Callao  was  again  bombarded,  this 
time  by  the  Chileans,  who  captured  the 
seaport   in    1881.     Peru  regained   Callao 


by  provision  of  the  treaty  of  peace  in 
1883,  and  since  that  time  Peru  has  been 
free  to  progress  and  grow  with  other 
South  American  Republics.  A  number 
of  revolutions  and  unfortunate  boundary 
dis])utes  have  punctuated  the  history  of 
Peru  during  the  past  forty  or  fifty  years, 
but  they  liuve  not  greatly  detracted  from 
the  growth  or  prosperity  of  the  country. 

A  JAUNT  TO  CALLAO 

HEN  the  ship  on  which 
the  traveler  is  sailing 
plows  a  furrow  through 
the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  do^vn  the  west 
coast  of  South  America, 
on  its  voyage  to  Peru,  he 
usually  experiences  fair 
weather  until  the  ship  proceeds  four  or 
five  hundred  miles  below  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama.  From  there  until  the  ship 
reaches  Callao,  and  farther  on  down  the 
coast,  to  and  around  Cape  Horn  or  the 
Straits  of  Magellan,  the  traveler  feels  the 
temperature  dropping;   warm  clothing  is 

Ttcenty-One 


CALLAO-LIMA 


Cotton  on  the  Docks  at  Callao 

comfortable:    he    considers    blankets    at 
night  a  blessing. 

Visions  of  the  warmth  and  heat  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Ocean,  in  the  same  lati- 

Twenty-Two 


tilde  in  which,  farther  to  the  west,  the 
South  Sea  Islanders  get  along  with  very 
little  clothing  or  none  at  all,  are  dispelled 
and  shattered.  The  voyageur  is  disap- 
pointed. He  expects  smiling  skies  and 
the  warm  caress  of  a  flower-scented  wind . 
Instead  he  finds  cold,  dour  winds,  rain, 
fog  as  thick  as  smoke,  and  altogether 
disagreeable  weather. 

It  is  the  fault,  of  course,  of  the  un- 
pleasant Humboldt  current,  which  affects 
the  western  coast  of  South  America  fully 
as  much  as  the  Gulf  Stream  affects  the 
climate  of  western  Europe,  The  cold- 
ness of  the  climate  alon^  the  coast  is  not 
the  only  prank  played  by  nature  in  this 
region.  Along  the  shores  of  Colombia 
and  Ecuador,  if  the  ship  goes  close  enough 
to  land,  the  traveler  glimpses  abundant 
forest  lands  not  so  far  inland ;  but  as  soon 
as  he  reaches  the  boundary  of  Peru  and 
Ecuador  he  is  sailing  along  a  coast  devoid 
of  rain,  and,  therefore,  devoid  of  forests 
and  almost  innocent  of  other  plant  life. 
But  in  forming  a  desert  out  of  the  western 
parts  of  Peru,  the  Humboldt  current  has 
made  possible  the  accumulation  of  guano, 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


which  has  put  some  money  into  the  Pe- 
ruvian treasury  and  enriched,  also,  private 
companies  engaged  in  digging  the  guano 
for  use  as  fertilizer  in  foreign  countries 
whose  soil  has  become  impoverished  after 
bearing  crops  for  hundreds  of  years. 
The  guano  deposits  of  Peru  will  be  dis- 
cussed more  fully  in  a  succeeding  chapter. 

The  Peruvian  coast  is  sown,  here  and 
there,  with  groups  of  barren  islands,  which 
furnish  a  rather  unsatisfactory  sort  of 
contrast  with  the  desert  plateau  lying 
inert  and  lifeless  behind  them.  There  is 
nothing  about  the  coast  at  this  point  to 
arouse  enthusiasm  or  interest.  It  is  an 
altogether  dreary  land,  and  the  traveler 
eagerly  longs  for  a  sight  of  Callao  and 
Lima  and  the  valleys  and  other  fertile 
regions  in  the  inland  districts  of  the 
Republic  of  Peru. 

Callao  Point,  a  shingle  bank  extending 
out  toward  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo, 
marks  the  entrance  to  the  bay  and  harbor 
of  Callao.  The  beach  of  La  Mar  Brava — 
the  boisterous  sea — reaches  from  Callao 
Point  to  Miraflores,  which  is  down  the 
coast,  farther  south.  La  Mar  Brava  derives  i 


^^ 

^^ 

t'l 

^ 

^W 

^:— ^.^^^ET 

m^ 

^^*^ 

y^^*^ 

In  the  Harbor 

its  name  from  the  surf  which  beats  con- 
stantly against  the  shore,  making  it 
'^  impossible  for  the  small  boats  to  land 
there  during  a  greater  part  of  the  year. 
A  number  of  hills,  close  to  the  sea,  form 
a  cape,  sloping  downward  as  it  reaches 
Callao  Point.  The  bay  is  formed  by  the 
cliffs  and  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo,  whose 
shores  rise  abruptly  from  the  water's 
as  if  seeking  to  escape  the  eternal 

Twenty- Three 


CALLAO-LIMA 


Senate  Chamber,  Lima 

pitiless    pounding    of    the    surf, 
lighthouse    stands 

Twenty-Four 


anchorage  is  reached  by  a  channel  pro- 
ceeding round  the  northern  extreme  of 
San  Lorenzo. 

SAN  FELIPE  CASTLE 

^|ALLAO,  a  prosperous  port 
of    some    30,000    inhabi- 
tants, is  interested  mainly 
in   the   transshipment   of 
the  exports  and  imports 
which  come  to  the  port 
from  the  interior  of  Peru 
and   from   the    merchant 
vessels  which  anchor  in  the  harbor.     The 
population,  of   course,  is  preponderantly 
Peruvian,   but   there  are   many  Indians, 
some  of  them  of  mixed  blood  and  others 
all  Indian.     And  there  are  a  great  many 
Japanese  and  Chinese,  a  few  Americans 
and  British  and  other  Europeans. 

The  Customhouse  stands  at  the  end  of 
the  mole.  Steps  on  the  south  end  provide 
a  landing  place  for  men-of-war.  In  ac- 
cordance with  the  port  regulations  boats 
are  not  permitted  to  lie  at  the  stops,  but 
must  be  taken  out  to  buoys  clear  of  the 
landing  place.  While  in  the  harbor,  during 
the  months   of  March    and  April,  ships 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


usually  are  afflicted  with  an  unpleasant 
odor,  commonly  called  ''  The  Painter."  It 
comes  from  a  mud-colored  slime  rising 
from  the  sand,  and  belieyed  by  some  au- 
thorities to  be  the  remains  of  innumerable 
quantities  of  small  dead  fish  brought  in  by 
the  tide.  Others  declare  it  to  be  of  volcanic 
origin.  No  matter  where  it  comes  from, 
the  slime  giyes  forth  a  most  nauseating 
smell,  comparing  favorably  with  poison  gas 
and  other  un])leasant  mixtures  which  ac- 
quired notoriety  in  the  World  War. 

Although  the  types  of  natives  in  Callao 
furnish  a  most  interesting  study  for  the 
student  of  human  nature,  the  buildings 
are  not  featured  by  any  particularly  strik- 
ing features.  The  majority  of  travelers 
landing  in  Callao  do  not  remain  there  long, 
but  hurry  on  to  Lima,  which,  more  pleas- 
ing to  the  eye,  affords  more  entertainment 
and  recreation  for  the  visitor  than  Callao. 
However,  since  there  is  such  a  thing  as  not 
being  able  to  go  to  Lima,  the  principal 
sights  of  Callao,  some  of  which  are  more 
than  ordinarily  picturesque,  will  be  listed 
for  the  benefit  of  the  reader  in  this  chapter. 

Callao,  like  Caesar's  Gaul,  is  divided 
into  three  parts.     The  first  settlement,  de- 


stroyed by  an  earthquake  and  tidal  wave 

nearly  two  hundred  years  ago,  lies  north  of 

modern  Callao.     The  present  city  is  com- 

^f    posed  of  two  districts,  one  the  older  and 

Twenty-Five 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


San  Augustine  M 

the  other  the  comparatively  modern  sec- 
tion. Old  Callao,  a  mixture  of  narrow, 
winding  streets  and  cjuaint  (and  insani- 
tary) old  houses,  rests  in  the  center  of  the 
city;  surrounding  it  is  new  Callao  with 
broad  streets  and  avenues,  and  better 
dwellings  than  those  of  old  Callao. 

The  most  romantic  spot  in  Callao  is 
the  Castle  of  San  Felipe,  from  whose  tower 
the  flag  of  Spain  last  floated  on  continen 

Twenty-Six 


America.  After  exercising  complete  con- 
trol over  a  great  part  of  South  America 
and  much  of  North  America,  for  a  period 
of  centuries,  the  Spanish  possessions  on 
the  continent,  north  and  south,  were  re- 
duced to  the  one  small  castle,  San  Felipe, 
whose  walls  were  to  toss  back  the  echoes 
of  the  bugle  notes  sounding  "taps"  for 
the  end  of  Spanish  rule  on  the  mainland, 
when  the  garrison  evacuated  the  castle 
during  the  revolution  in  which  Peru  gained 
her  freedom.  The  castle,  with  its  stained 
gray  walls,  is  drab  with  the  drabness  of 
old,  old  buildings  by  the  sea.  It  is  even 
more  lifeless  in  appearance  than  near-by 
buildings.  But  around  its  massive  walls 
there  lingers  some  of  the  same  sort  of 
romance  which  clings  to  castles  wherever 
they  are;  whether  they  be  castles  in  Spain, 
or  in  Italy,  or  on  the  Rhine,  or  in  Old 
England.  They  whisper  a  message  from 
the  dead  into  the  ears  of  the  living,  and 
he  wiio  pauses  to  listen  gleans  more  out 
of  a  visit  to  the  unkempt,  ramshackled  old 
stone  piles  than  he  who  looks  at  them  and 
sees  them  as  they  are,  instead  of  looking 
at  them  and  seeing  them  for  what  they 
were  in  the  days  of  long  ago.     Such  is  the 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


castle  of  San  Felipe,  where  the  Spanish 
troops  made  their  last  stand  in  Peru. 

Callao  enjoys  fair  weather  at  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  The  heat  is  almost 
never  oppressive.  Late  in  the  morning 
and  early  in  the  afternoon  a  sea  breeze 
sweeps  over  the  city,  cooling  brows  which 
may  have  become  fevered  by  the  morning's 
exertions.  The  nights  are  fairly  cool, 
sometimes  even  cold.  A  touch  of  damp- 
ness hangs  over  the  city  in  the  early  hours 
of  the  morning.  Clouds  of  mist  often 
swirl  in  from  the  ocean.  There  are  some- 
times periods  of  fog  in  Callao  during 
December  and  March;  then  the  city  is 
wrapped  in  a  gray,,  wet  cloak  which  adds 
to  the  suspicion  of  the  mysterious  and 
fantastic,  always  present,  especially  in  the 
older  districts  and  in  the  winding  streets 
and  alleys  of  Callao. 

Travelers  may  obtain  information  from 
the  American  consul  general  in  Callao. 
Other  diplomatic  representatives  in  Callao 
are  as  follows:  Consul  generals  of  Chile, 
Sweden,  and  Denmark;  consuls  of  Great 
Britain  and  Germany;  and  vice-consuls 
of  France,  Bel^imn,  Argentina,  Uruguay, 
Italy,  and  Mexico. 


CITY  OF  THE  KINGS 

IMjV,  capital  of  Peru,  stands 
on  the  banks  of  the  Rimac 
River,  about  seven  miles 
from  Callao,  from  which 
port  it  can  be  reached  by 
electric  or  steam  railroad. 
The  cityrests  in  a  wide  val- 
ley, flanked  by  mountains, 
whose  peaks  tower  over  the  city  toward  the 
north.  The  land  around  the  city  is  part  of 
the  coastal  plain,  bare  and  brown,  with 
lack  of  rain,  except  in  some  spots  where 
irrigation  has  made  possible  tlie  growth 
of  oases  in  the  middle  of  the  barren  land. 
Lima  was  given  by  Pizarro  the  poetic 
name  "City  of  the  Kings."  The  conqueror 
of  Peru,  besides  being  a  soldier,  was 
evidently  a  romantic  soul,  as  were  most 
of  his  fellow  soldiers.  They  are  said  to 
have  alternated  their  forays  in  search  of 
Indian  gold  with  periods  of  moonstruck 
melancholia.  Then  they  sang  tender  love 
songs  and  sighed  beneath  the  balconies 
where  sat  their  dark-eyed  lady  loves.  And 
their  lady  loves,  in  turn,  would  hold  red 
roses    between    their    pearly    teeth,    cast 

Twenti/Seven 


CALLAO-LIMA 


Old  Franciscan  Church 

mournful  glances  at  their  romantic  lovers, 
at  the  same  time  scowling  at  their  Dueiias. 
(Ducna  is  Spanish   for  chaperon.)     Yes 

Twenty-Eight 


they  had  spitfire  tempers,  had  these  lady 
loves  of  old.  They  shattered  the  hearts  of 
many  a  brave  don,  who,  but  a  short  time 
before,  perhaps,  had  broken  his  sword  on 
an  Indian  skull.  Shattered  hearts  and 
broken  swords — what  a  phrase  to  conjure 
with.  Sir  Walter  vScott  or  Fenimore 
Cooper  could  have  written  a  novel  around 
it,  but  we  can  only  pass  it  by.  Pizarro's 
poetic  name,  "City  of  the  Kings,"  was 
generally  applied  to  Lima  for  several 
years;  but  it  finally  fell  into  disuse  and 
was  succeeded  by  the  present  name  of  the 
city — Lima — a  derivative  of  Rimac,  the 
river  which  flows  through  the  city. 

Lima  has  a  population  of  some  150,000 
persons.  It  is  the  largest  and  most  pros- 
perous city  of  Peru,  the  combined  heart 
^^  and  brain  of  the  Republic.  Its  streets  are 
narrow,  its  houses  seldom  more  than  two 
stories  in  height,  built  frequently  with 
reeds  plastered  over  with  mud.  The 
practice  of  building  houses  with  reeds  and 
mud  is  not  followed  by  choice,  but  rather 
by  necessity,  since  frequent  earthquakes 
in  Lima  make  very  nearly  impracticable 
any  house  of  solid  structure.  In  the  event 
of  an  earthquake,   the  remains  of  the  frail 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


houses  can  easOy  be  cleared  away,  and  new 
ones  of  a  similar  type  can  be  constructed 
with  less  expense  than  would  be  incurred 
in  the  building  or  rebuilding  of  a  house  of 
stone,  brick,  or  wood. 

THE  HEART  OF  LIMA 

S  Li:\L\  is  the  heart  of  Peru, 
so  the  Plaza  de  Armas  is 
the  heart  of  Lima.  In 
nearly  every  Spanish- 
speaking  city  or  town  the 
plaza  or  the  square  is  the 
center  of  interest  for  the 
populace.  Public  celebra- 
tions are  held  in  the  square;  the  people 
promenade  there  of  an  evening  and  on  holi- 
days. Lima  could  no  more  get  along  with- 
out its  Plaza  de  Armas  than  Boston  could 
get  along  without  its  Commons,  or  Paris 
without  its  Champs Elysees,  or  Washington 
without  its  Potomac  Park.  The  Plaza  de 
Armas  is  a  fixture,  a  tradition,  in  the  Pe- 
ruvian capital.  Ai'ound  the  Plaza  are  a 
number  of  buildings  whose  past  is  filled 
with  associations  with  the  history  of  Peru. 
One  of  the  most  prominent  of  these 
structures,  the  Cathedral,  contains  what  is 


Senate  Building 

said  to  be  the  mummified  body  of  Pizarro. 
Aside  from  its  interest  as  a  resting  place  of 
the  Spanish  adventurer,  theCathedral,with 
its  Moorish  facade  and  its  towers,  its  small 

Twenty-Nine 


CALLAO-LIMA 


shrines  and  choir  stalls,  its  air  of  quiet,  eccle- 
siastical dignity,  is  attractive  in  itself.  The 
bones  of  Pizarro  are  contained  in  a  glass 
case,  reposing  in  one  of  the  several  shrines 
inside  the  Cathedral.  It  was  Pizarro  who 
founded  the  Cathedral  in  1540,inoneof  tliose 
strangely  pious  moods  which  came  at  inter- 
vals in  his  orgies  of  bloodshed  and  looting. 
The  original  cathedral,  crumbling  in  tlie 

Eassage  of  years,  has  been  largely  rebuilt 
y  succeeding  generations  of  Peruvians. 
A  slab  of  marble  in  the  pavement  of 
the  arcade,  which  fronts  the  Government 
buildings  on  the  opposite  corner  of  the 
Plaza  de  Armas,  points  out  the  spot  where 
Pizarro  was  assassinated  by  his  enemies. 
Tradition  says  that  Pizarro,  as  he  lay  on 
the  ground  in  a  bed  of  his  own  blood, 
dipped  his  hngers  in  the  arterial  liquid  and 
made  a  crimson  sign  of  the  cross  "as  his 
life  fled  up  his  throat."  At  the  moment 
of  his  death,  as  during  his  life,  he  seemed 
to  be  fascinated  by  the  sight  of  blood. 

From  the  gallery  of  the  municipal  build- 
ing, also  on  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  General 
San  Martin  shouted  forth  the  message 
which  indicated  the  passing  of  Spanish 
rule  in  Peru.     An  old  chapel  on  the  Plaza 


CALLAO-LIMA 


is  tlie  only  remainino;  part  of  the  viceregal 
palace,  whose  Moorish  decorations,  hun- 
dreds of  years  ago,  were  the  pride  of  Lima. 
There  are  other  squares  in  Lima  besides  the 
Plazade  Armas;  there  are  other  churches  in 
the  Peruvian  capital  besides  the  Ciithedral. 
The  Plaza  de  Acho,  north  of  the  Rimac 
River,  contains  the  bull  ring  where  the  na- 
tional sport  of  Spain  is  indulged  in  by  Pe- 
ruvian matadors.  The  Plaza  de  Bolivar, 
containing  a  statue  of  Bolivar,  the  patriot, 
is  a  third  square  in  Lima.  There  are  sev- 
eral spacious  promenades,  shaded  by  large 
trees  and  ornamented  with  statues  of 
Peruvian  generals  and  statesmen. 

HOTELS  AND  THEATERS 

IMA'S  principal  hotels  and 
theaters,  typically  South 
American,  are  listed  as 
follows:  Hotel  Maury, 
Calle  Bodegomes  99,  30 
suites  in  main  building 
and  30  suites  in  annex — 
rates  for  room  and  meals 
$3  a  day  and  up;  Hotel  Francia,  Ingla- 
terra  and  Plaza  de  Armas,  100  rooms; 
Gran  Hotel,  Calle  Melchormalo,  65  rooms — 


National  University 

rates  usually  SI  to  $3.50  for  rooms  with- 
out meals;  with  meals,  .$3  to  $5  a  day. 

Thirty-One 


CALLAO-LIMA 


A  Busy  Street 

Theaters:  Teatro  Chino,  Cangallo  37; 
Teatro  Olimpo,  lea.  (C) ;  Teatro  Politeama, 
Lampa  250;  Teatro  Municipal,  Place  del 

Thirty- Tivo 


Teatro;  Empressa  del  Cinema  Teatro; 
Empressa  Internacional  Cinematografica; 
also  the  new  Forero  Theater.  Americans 
in  Lima  have  a  very  short  name  for 
"cinematogrdfica" — it  is  "movie." 

MOORS  AND  INDIANS 

IMA  is  disappointing  to 
many  travelers  who  pro- 
ceed to  the  city  with  the 
conviction  that  they  are 
about  to  see  something 
entirely  wondrous  and 
beautiful  and  fascinating. 
But  it  is  not  Lima's  fault ; 
rather  it  is  the  traveler's.  The  proverbial 
"distance  lends  enchantment"  is  true  of 
Lima,  just  as  it  is  of  Athens,  of  Rome,  of 
London,  of  Washington,  of  any  city.  Al- 
though Lima  is  disappointing  to  the  trav- 
eler who  expects  too  much,  it  is,  in  the 
same  breath,  entirely  satisfactory  to  the 
traveler  who  goes  to  Lima  without  first 
building  romantic,  ephemeral,  and  impos- 
sible air  castles  of  what  he  hopes  to  see  in 
the  city.  The  visitor  in  Lima  must  expect 
to  view  just  as  much  sordidness  and  squalor 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


and  as  mucli  of  the  commonplace  as  he 
sees  in  any  other  city  at  home  or  ahroad. 
He  must  expect  to  be  bothered  by  the 
heat — it  may  cause  him  to  swear  feelingly; 
and  if  he  is  not  tortured  by  the  heat  he 
very  likely  will  be  plagued  by  the  cold, 
damp  air,  the  fogs,  and  the  low,  thick 
clouds  which  hang  at  times  over  the  Pe- 
ruvian capital.  He  must  expect  to  see  a 
certain  monotony  about  most  of  the  build- 
ings, and  he  should  not  be  surprised  if  he 
arrives  in  the  midst  of  a  celebration  or 
political  campaign  of  some  sort,  for  they 
are  frequently  happening  in  Lima.  Despite 
all  these  disadvantages  (except  the  last 
named,  which  might  be  looked  upon  as  an 
advantage  by  the  adventurer),  Lima  has 
its  color — great  red,  and  green,  and  purple 
splashes  of  it;  Lima  has  personality — ^and 
that,  we  claim,  is  more  than  can  be  said  for 
many  cities;  and  Lima  has  a  variety  of 
races,  observation  of  which  on  the  plazas, 
the  promenades,  or  in  the  outlying  dis- 
tricts, should  more  than  make  up  for  any 
beauty  of  architecture  the  modern  city 
may  lack. 

The  Indians  of  Lima  are  more  pictur- 
esque than  any  of  the  other  Limenos;  most 


A  Small  Store 

of  them  have  not  yet  reached  tha^  stage  of 
civilization  which  renders  men  and  races 
uninteresting;   they  have  enough  of  the 

Thirty- Three 


CALLAO-LIMA 


Balconies 

primitive   about   them,   both   as   regard 
manners  and  dress,  to  attract  and  hold  the 
attention  of  the  traveler  who  wanders  into 
Lima.     Reddish-brown  in  color,  the  Peru- 

Thirty-Four 


vian  Indians  seem  to  the  guileless  trav- 
eler to  have  a  constant  blush  on  his  face; 
and  the  guileless  traveler  usually  ascribes 
what  he  thinks  is  a  blush  to  the  lack  of 
clothing,  and,  therefore,  according  to  our 
standards,  the  lack  of  modesty  among  the 
Indian  folk.  It  may  be  said,  however, 
that  such  impressions  are  erroneous. 
When  he  is  in  town  the  Indian  usually 
dresses  up,  and  he  is  still  reddish-brown  in 
color.  Tlie  guileless  traveler,  surprised 
at  the  fact,  makes  inquiries  and  finds  that 
the  reddish-brown  in  the  face  of  the  In- 
dian is  not  the  mark  of  a  blush  at  all — 
it  is  a  very  natural  color. 

When  the  Peruvian  Indian  puts  on  his 
holiday  clothing  he  is  in  a  position  to  give 
pointers  to  strollers  in  Piccadilly  or  on 
Broadway — Beau  Brummel  would  flee  his 
presence  in  despair;  the  peacock  would 
drag  his  bronze  and  green  tail  in  the  dust. 
Nearly  all  Indian  women  in  Peru  wear  the 
national  poncho  or  cloak;  blue,  green, 
red,  yellow,  violet,  and  salmon  colored 
petticoats;  and  wide  brimmed  hats  with 

filt  bands.     Sometimes  they  wear  shoes, 
ut  frequently  they  manage  to  survive 
without  them.     Around   their   necks  the 


CALLAO-LIMA 


women  wear  long  strings  of  beads.  vSome 
of  them  wear  earrings  and  silver  jewelry, 
and  then  consider  their  dress  to  be  com- 
plete. The  Indian  men  wear  ponchos, 
too;  their  trousers  are  of  vivid  hue,  their 
hats  smaller  and  closer  fitting  than  the 
women's.  Under  their  hats  they  wear 
tight-fitting  caps,  resembling  skull  caps, 
with  flaps  covering  the  ears.  The  caps 
are  often  a  bright,  shrieking  red  in  color, 
and  the  hats  are  usually  white;  so  the 
reader  can  visualize  the  startling  and 
colorful  effect  even  before  he  sees  it. 
Some  Indians  have  adopted  the  sombre 
clerical  garb  of  the  modern  civilized 
male,  especially  those  Indians  who  live 
in  the  cities;  but  there  are  enough  of  the 
Indians  who  retain  the  old  style  of  dress 
to  brighten  the  landscape  wherever  they 
go  in  Lima  or  Callao.  There  are  many 
Negroes  in  Peru;  and  many  Zambos,  or 
men  and  women  of  mixed  Indian  and 
Negro  blood;  and,  too.  Mestizos,  or  half- 
breeds  of  mixed  white  and  Indian  ances- 
try. The  aristocracy  of  Lima  and  Callao 
is  composed  mostly  of  families  of  Castilian 
ancestry,  who  have  kept  their  veins  clear 
of  Indian  and  Negro  blood  since  the  time 


The  Paseo  Colon 

of  the  conquistadores.  Although  in  all 
probability  a  very  small  portion  of  the 
population  of  Peru  has  Moorish  blood  in 
its  veins,  the  influence  of  the  ancient 
invaders  of  Spain  is  seen  in  the  style  of 
architecture  which  predominates  in  the 
more  substantial  buildings  of  Lima. 

Thirty-Five 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


The  National  University 

It  has  already  been  noted  that  the 
facade  of  the  Cathedral  is  typically  Moor- 
ish in  appearance;  the  same  is  true  of 
parts  of  many  of  the  churches  and  some 
of  the  public  buildings,  especially  the  old 

Thirty-Six 


hall  of  the  Inquisition,  where  the  Peruvian 
Senate  now  helps  to  make  the  laws  of  the 
Republic.  Possibly  the  oriental  appear- 
ance of  some  of  the  structures  in  a  city 
far  from  the  Orient  has  something  to  do 
with  the  impression  of  weirdness,  of  the 
unreal,  which  enshrouds  the  stranger  as 
he  walks  through  the  plazas  or  strolls  or 
rides  on  the  promenades  of  Lima. 

THE  DESERT  COAST 

NE    of    the    anomalies    of 
Peru    is    that    its    desert 
coast  —  which     produces 
very  little  plant  or  vege- 
table  life — furnishes    the 
means  whereby  crops  can 
be     made     to     grow    in 
the  hitherto  impoverished 
soil  of  other  countries,  and,  too,  in  the 
interior     of     the    Republic     itself.     The 
"means"    is    guano,    deposited    on    the 
islands  and  cliffs  along  the  shores  of  Peru 
by   succeeding   generations    of   sea    fowl, 
who  live  in  such  vast  numbers  along  the 
coast  that  in  passing  overhead  they  some- 
times "  darken  the  sun,"  as  did  the  passen- 
ger   pigeons     of    North    America.     The 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


absence  of  rainfall  on  the  coast  has  made 
possible  the  accumulation  of  the  guano, 
which  otherwise  would  have  been  washed 
away  almost  as  soon  as  it  accumulated 
on  the  islands  and  cliffs.  The  lack  of 
moisture  in  the  air,  preventing  decompo- 
sition of  the  guano,  makes  it  possible 
for  people  to  gather  it  without  a  great 
deal  of  discomfort. 

The  importance  of  the  guano  deposits 
alon^  the  Peruvian  coast  was  known  to 
the  Incas,  but  it  was  not  until  the  middle 
of  the  last  century  that  its  value  as  manure 
was  realized  and  appreciated  by  foreign 
nations.  Soon  the  demand  for  guano, 
especially  in  European  countries,  became 
so  great  that  the  supply,  immense  as  it 
was,  could  net  keep  up  with  the  demand, 
and  in  the  ensuing  fifty  or  sixty  years  the 
Peruvian  guano  beds  were  practically 
stripped  of  their  valuable  deposits.  It  is 
estimated  that  ten  million  tons  of  guano 
were  taken  from  one  group  of  islands 
between  1850  and  1870.  The  islands 
were  surrounded  by  ships,  whose  crews 
would  shovel  the  guano  into  bags  and 
bins,  and  sail  away  to  market,  only  to 
return  for  another  cargo  as  soon  as  the 


The  Zoo 

guano  was  unloaded  at  port.  The  beds 
of  guano  were  scores  of  feet  thick.  They 
represented  an  accumulation  of  tens  and 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  years'  deposits 
by  the  gannets,  cormorants,  penguins,  and 
other  sea  birds  living   along   the  coast. 

Thirty-Seven 


CALLAO-LIMA 


The  despoilers  of  the  beds  not  only  carried 
away  the  guano,  but  they  also  killed  and 
drove  away  many  of  the  birds. 

In  1908  the  Peruvian  Government, 
realizing  the  mistake  being  made  in  per- 
mitting the  wholesale  despoliation  of 
the  guano  beds,  closed  the  Chincha 
Islands,  principal  depositaries,  for  a 
period  of  years.  In  1910  extraction 
of  guano  was  permitted  on  one  of  the 
small  islands  in  the  group — and  22,000 
tons  of  fertilizer,  representing  two  years' 
accumulation,  were  removed  and  sold. 
A  policy  of  conservation  similar  to  that 
observed  by  our  country  in  the  national 
forest  areas  is  now  being  followed,  and 
the  wisdom  of  the  Government  in  adopt- 
ing such  a  policy  has  been  demonstrated 
time  and  again.  To  give  some  idea  of 
the  numbers  of  guano-depositing  birds 
on  the  coast  of  Peru  it  is  only  necessary 
to  visit  one  of  the  islands.  Tens  of 
thousands  of  birds  and  almost  as  many 
nests  are  crowded  together  in  small 
areas.  For  example,  nearly  a  million 
cormorants  have  been  seen  grouped 
together  at  one  time  on  one  of  the  Chin- 
cha Islands.     The  Ballestas  and  Chincha 

Thirty-Eight 


td    1 


Islands  are  occupied  largely  by  the  cor- 
morants, the  Lobos  Islands  by  the 
pelicans,  the  Santa  Rosas  group  by  the 
small  terns,  and  San  Gallan  by  the  little 
petrels.  These  are  but  a  few  of  the 
guano  islands  scattered  up  and  down  the 
coast  of  Peru. 

TALES  OF  OLD  PERU 

ANY  tales  of  old  Peru  are 
still  related  by  the  people 
of     the     country.     Some 
of  the  tales  have  become 
traditions;  some  deal  with 
polit  ical  events ;  some  tell 
of  the  adrentures  of  the 
conquistadores    and    the 
Incas;  others  are  just  stories  of  love,  and 
life,  and  death.     All  of  them  are  fascinat- 
ing, whether  the  person  who  hears  them  be 
of  either  a  romantic  or  realisiic  turn  of 
mind.     With  the  hope  that  a  summary  of 
a  few  of  the  tales  of  old  Peru  will  help  the 
reader  to  absorb  some  of  the  atmosphere  of 
this  ancient  country,  some  of  the  tales,  in 
condensed  form,   will  be  related   in  the 
present  and  last  chapter.     The  first  one, 
vouched  for  by  James  Bryce,  author  of 


CALLAO-LIMA 


"The  American  Commonwealth,"  is  often 
told  in  Peru. 

Many  years  ago  a  Peruvian  family, 
with  wealth  inherited  from  its  con- 
quistadore  ancestors,  founded  the  con- 
vent of  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Dolores. 
It  was  decided  that  one  of  the  women  of 
the  family  should  always  take  the  veil 
and  devote  her  life  to  serving  as  the 
abbess  of  the  convent.  Years  passed 
and  the  convent  prospered,  its  sisters 
devoting  themselves  to  the  worship  of 
God  and  the  carrying  out  of  charitable 
works  among  the  poor.  Finally  the 
family  which  founded  the  convent  was 
reduced  to  two  brothers  and  a  sister. 
The  older  brother  was  a  layman,  the 
younger  a  bishop  of  the  church.  The 
older  brother  was  a  widower;  his  family 
consisted  of  two  children,  a  son  and  a 
daughter.  The  sister  was,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  family  custom,  the  abbess 
of   the    convent. 

Now  the  abbess  was  growing  old, 
and  fearing  that  she  would  not  long  sur- 
vive it  was  decided  that  the  daughter 
should  enter  the  convent  to  prepare  to 
succeed  her  aunt.     The  girl  believed  that 


the  religious  life  was  not  her  vocation. 
She  did  not  wish  to  enter  the  convent. 
Family  custom  decreed,  however,  that 
her  personal  inclination  could  not  be 
humored,  and  so  she  entered  the  convent. 
Her  aunt,  the  abbess,  sympathized  with 
her,   made   the   girl's   duties   as  light   as 

fossible.  In  time,  the  abbess  fell  ill. 
t  was  suggested  that  a  Scotch  physician 
who  had  but  recently  moved  to  the 
town  in  which  the  convent  was  located 
should  be  consulted.  The  abbess  refused 
to  see  the  doctor,  and  it  was  decided  that 
the  niece,  closely  veiled,  should  meet  him 
in  an  anteroom  and  describe  the  symp- 
toms, so  that  remedies  could  be  suggested. 
The  physician  asked  the  niece  whether 
she  could  count  the  pulse.  "No,"  she 
replied  timidly.  "Put  your  fingers  on 
my  wrist,"  said  the  physician,  "and  I 
shall  teach  you  how."  The  niece  did  as 
requested,  left  to  count  the  abbess'  pulse, 
and  then  returned  to  the  doctor  with  the 
desired  information.  He  decided  that 
the  abbess  was  suffering  from  cancer. 

The  doctor  continued  to  meet  the  niece 
m  the  anteroom  of  the  convent — he  to 
prescribe   remedies,    she    to    tell   him   of 

Thirty- Nine 


CALLAO-LIMA 


Market  Street 

the  progress  of  the  patient's  ilhiess. 
And  then  (as  we  have  been  expecting  all 
along)  the  doctor  and  the  young  sister 
fell  in  love.  He  urged  her  to  nee  the 
convent,  to  marry  him.  She  was  torn 
between  the  duty  imposed  upon  her  by 
her  vows  and  her  love  of  the  man.     Finally 

Fortu 


she  consented  to  go  with  him.  The 
doctor  brought  a  skeleton  from  the 
hospital.  With  the  help  of  the  laundress, 
whom  he  had  enlisted  in  his  cause,  the 
skeleton  was  taken  to  the  girl's  cell  in 
a  laundry  basket.  The  young  sister 
placed  the  skeleton  in  her  bed,  set  fire  to 
the  blankets,  and  in  the  resulting  con- 
fusion, escaped  from  the  convent.  The 
charred  bones  of  the  skeleton  were  mis- 
taken for  the  remains  of  her  own  body, 
and  she  was  mourned  as  dead. 

The  doctor  begged  the  girl  to  go  with 
him  to  the  coast,  where  they  could  be 
married  without  being  detected  by  tlieir 
friends.  She  first  insisted  on  obtaining 
the  forgiveness  of  her  relatives,  and  when 
night  fell  she  crept  into  the  palace  of  her 
uncle,  the  bishop,  tlu-ew  herself  on  her 
knees  before  him,  and  begged  for  protec- 
tion. When  she  told  him  the  story  of  her 
love  the  bishop  attempted  to  cast  her 
from  him.  But  she  still  clung  to  him,  and 
finally  he  listened.  Then,  "Wait  a  mo- 
ment," he  said,  and  left  the  room.  Very 
shortly  he  returned  with  a  bag  containing 
the  family  jewels — emeralds.  ''Fly  with 
your  lover,"  he  said.     The  man  and  the 


CALLAO-LIMA 


girl  escaped  to  the  coast  and  boarded  an 
English  frigate,  where  they  were  married 
by  the  chaplain.  They  fled  to  England, 
where,  years  after,  they  were  found  by  the 
girl's  brother,  to  whom  the  bishop  had  re- 
vealed the  secret.  The  girl  was  finally  for- 
fiven  by  others  in  her  family  beside  the 
ishop,'and  her  descendants,  accepted  by 
their  Peruvian  kinsfolk,  are  said  to  be 
now  living  in  Peru,  and  they  still  possess 
the  family  jewels  which  the  girl  carried 
with  her  on  her  flight  to  the  coast. 

Another  tale  gives  the  reader  some 
idea  of  the  monstrous  cruelty  inflicted  by 
foreigners  on  the  natives  during  the  in- 
vasion of  Peru.  One  of  the  last  of  the 
Incas,  a  young  man,  Tupac  Amaru  by 
name,  was  imprisoned  by  a  foreign 
governor  and  in  the  com-se  of  time  was 
condemned  to  death.  The  day  of  execu- 
tion arrived.  As  the  youth  knelt,  with 
his  head  on  the  block  and  the  execu- 
tioner lifted  his  sword,  a  cry  of  horror 
arose  from  the  assembled  crowd  of  Indians. 
So  unexpected  was  the  sound,  so  spon- 
taneous, so  pitiful,  that  the  executioner 
put  do^\'n  his  sword.  A  number  of  priests, 
their  hearts  filled  with  pity  for  the  youth 


An  Old  Bell  Tower 

went   inunediatcly   to   the   governor   and 
asked  for  mercy.     But  the  governor  was 

Forty-One 


CALLAO-LI  MA 


uns^verTincr  in  his  determination  to  have 
the  sentence  carried  out.  The  head  of 
Tupac  Amaru  was  struck  from  his  hodj 
and  placed  on  a  pike,  so  that  all  who  were 
there  could  see  the  punishment  meted  out 
to  those  who  dared  question  his  suprem- 
acy in  Peru.  The  hours  passed.  At 
midnight  someone,  looking  from  a  win- 
dow near  the  scaffold,  was  astonished  to 
see  a  crowd  of  thousands  of  Indians  kneel- 
ing around  the  pike  which  held  the  head 


of    Tupac    Amaru.     They    were    paying 
trihute  to  one  of  the  last  of  the  Incas. 

There  are  many  other  tales  of  old  Peru 
which  might  be  told  in  these  pages,  but 
space  does  not  permit.  However,  those 
related  in  the  preceding  paragi-aphs  give 
the  reader  a  glimpse  of  ancient  days  in  the 
empire  of  the  Incas  and  land  of  the  llamas 
and  the  conquistadores.  They  may  help 
to  liven  his  interest  in  this  land  over- 
shadowed bv  the  eternal  Andes. 


Forty-Two 


WASHINGTON  :  GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE  :  1920 


CALLAO-LIMA 


MEMORANDUM 

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Forty-Three 


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MEMORANDUM 


Forty-Four 


CALLAO-LIMA 


MEMORANDUM 


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